Letter 8 (Dave)

Hi All,

Got a break in the schedule giving us an opportunity to check e-mail after only one day. recall, tonight is the night was take the overnight train to Bangkok. Then the next day on to Vietnam.

On the other-hand, not a lot to report since #7.

We did walk another market last night. Mostly just looked but picked up a few little things. Then took a tuk-tuk back to the hotel. That's a cycle with two seats on the behind. They move pretty fast weaving in and out of traffic.

Thailand is really far more modern than was my image. It appears to be a well run country with a functioning infrastructure. The disaster impact clearly has had no effect where we are traveling.

It is also a place to see a good number of antibush cartoons and statements; nothing positive. The feelings are pretty clear. I would assume that we are traveling with a very pro-Bush group, with one exception. Our guide stays neutral on political conversations which is wise. His response to the statement that Bush has certainly alienated the international community did get a quick nod of agreement.

Did have five rolls of film processed by the local Fuji Frontier machine. The pics lack solid color saturation and all tend to be on the dark side. So, the rest go back through the maze of x-ray machines -- I hope not. if they had been done well, I could have given them a lot of business. I will have some of the photos reprinted that are most important to me.

It was frustrating, however, because in every-way it was an extensive photography center. Lots of cameras I could have looked like the Nikon D70 and the new Minolta. But a quick look at the prices discouraged further looking.

This morning we did take part in a traditional Thai massage for almost two hours. I've had several on the trip, and this one was the best so far. Very professional. Those from the group who participated were in one room and most of the massage seemed to be orchestrated at the same time. There was some variation, however, for Mom who had some special treatment to her knees.

We'll soon be off to our train, so uncertain when the next epistle will take place.

Letter 7 (Ann)

Hi,



In case you are interested :>) I have been up at 5:30 A.M. several mornings and it is really nice and cool then. But I have been getting to bed at 10:00 or 10:30.



I have been in a pool most afternoons and am surprised how cold they are.  I would guess the temp. is 65 degrees.  But I do about 1/2 hour of exercise anyway.



Tonight is a home hosted meal where our whole group of 15 goes to a home to meet the family and they will prepare dinner for us.  We have seen so many Buddhist temples.  They are beautiful but I am about templed out.  This a.m. we were on the street b y 6:00 a.m. and bought food to give to the monks.   They begin their soliciting food for the day then and everyone usually gives them rice, a vegetable and a dessert and a glass of water in the bowl or bag they carry.  They take it all back to the temple and eat two meals before noon and from that food and then no more the rest of the day.



Today we had a "monk" chat and it was very interesting.  With an older monk who is a professor in the university.  Then we went to a temple and kneeled in front of a monk who was seated.  He "blessed" us and sprinkled us with water using a long bamboo tube.   The men in our group each had string tied around their wrist by the monk, by he threw the women's at them since no monk can even touch a woman.  When Dave and I had our picture taken with the monk at the monk chat, I had to be reminded not to get too close to him.  



It is almost impossible for me to kneel on my knees now.  I really need to do something about them when I get back.  And every time we go into a temple we are supposed to kneel if we present the Buddha with flowers or incense. 



Yesterday we visited 4 factories.  They were all different and very interesting.  My favorite one was the parasol factory, because at the end of the explanation we could have one of the parasol painters paint a piece of clothing, hat, camera bag, etc. for us.  So I took off my new photo vest ($8.00 by the way and so many pockets I can never find anything!) and had her put a butterfly and flowers on the back.  Guess what color!  PURPLE.  It is beautiful.



Today we visited a Jade factory.  I felt sorry for the little lady who took us around.  She is, of course, supposed to follow us all over and "help" us with any questions we may have.  We had no intentions of buying anything jade so I walked away from her and went back into the workshop we had just come from (and had been told we could return later).  She followed Dad around until he finally decided to go to the restroom and then she found me and waited for me to come out of the workshop area.  We finally went outside and ate their cookies, drank ginger tea and talked with others from our group that were not buying.



We are going to walk the night market tonight after dinner which is in about 25 min.



Love,



Mom

Letter 7 (Dave)

Dave & Ann: Southeast Asia 2005
Hi,

Another quick update.

Yesterday was elephant day. Mom and I rode atop a large elephant making our way across rivers, forest trails, occasionally refueling the animal with purchased sugar cane and bananas. It was a fun ride. A more traditional elephant show followed with the elephants painting pictures, ducking baskets in basketball, kicking soccer balls through the goal posts, dancing, working logs, etc. It is a herd owned for several generations to raise and train elephants. But watch out if you don't feed them fast enough. They can get pushy which is no small matter for several tons of beast!

All this was followed by a pleasant rafting trip down the river. It was hardly white water stuff though like Costa Rica, but was relaxing.

What followed in the p.m. was a series of visits at various factories where they made and worked with silver, gem stones, laquerware, etc. Well, let's put it this way, it really was more interesting than I thought it would be. Of course, the opportunity to make a purchase was always there.

Also a brief visit at a butterfly and orchid garden. Now why did I leave my closeup lens back in the hotel? Lots of color.

In the evening, we went out and presented gifts of incense, flowers and gold leaf to the Buddha in a worship setting.

This a.m., Tuesday, we got up at 5:30 to watch and respond to the Buddhist monks on the rounds seeking food donations. They do not beg, but will only respond when invited. We had plates of food which we placed in their buckets. Then we received a chanted blessing. It is in this way they receive alms for their support. In Myanmar the monks aggressively beg for money because of the poverty there. But in Thailand, the response is natural and not pushed in any way. People gather early to greet the oranged robed monks, some children novices as well, to make their donations.

Later in the morning, we gathered with a learned professor who was a monk. He had lectured and traveled to the US at various times and knew all the football teams represented by the various states in our group. He shared some of the Buddhist history and philosophy and responded to questions. It was an interesting time. He didn't answer my question too well though in how the Buddhists feel about persons of other faiths such as Abraham, Jesus and Mohammed.

Then a drive up a steep road took us to another massive temple. It was built centuries ago at the place where a special white elephant stopped. The elephant could have picked a more convenient spot, but 300 steps just made it more interesting.

While there we shook a canister of sticks and when one fell out, the number on it corresponded with a statement of the future for the person. I'll let Mom report on hers! To give a hint, mine was quite positive.

We than approached a monk who gave each of us a blessing which included the sprinkling of water on each of us. Then we approached and a cord was placed on our wrist. He tied the one on the males, but since they can have no physical contact with females, he simply placed in their hand.

Perhaps you can tell by now, that when you have a cultural tour of Thailand, it is impossible to separate it from Buddhism. It is a way of life. Yet, it is done in a gentle way where there is not attempt to convert or evangelize. That is not their style.

I just looked over and see Mom writing to you concurrent with this, from what I see there, I won't try to duplicate what she is writing

This will be our last night in Chaing Mei and tomorrow we return to Bangkok via an all night train ride. Then the next day, we leave for Vietnam. I have no idea of the Internet connections there.

Oops, off to supper in 20 minutes and we have to return to the hotel.

love dad

Letter 6 (Dave)

Hi All,



This should be interesting. Mom is typing on the computer next to me writing to you, and now I will do the same. Who knows, there could be conflicting stories. 



Near the city of Phitsanulok, we enjoyed another farm visit where we experienced catfish farming, pumpkin, morning glory, and egg plant. And, of course, rice fields. Now that that sounds familiar, I may be going back a bit too far in time trying to catch up stuff with you. Rice planting is certainly labor intensive though as the women stand in the water all day and transplant each one individually.



Of course, we visit many temples. Wat Mhathat in Sukothai was visited by Tut Tut's, a motorized bike.



On Jan 28 we visited a school and got into almost every. We also took part in their opening exercises as they raised the flag, sang the national anthem and then were led in physical exercises by other kids. Mom enjoyed the kindergarten. Some brought some school supplies. They were enjoying out visit yet were always polite and respectful. The Buddhist culture does have influence on nation.



Mom had a Thai dish for lunch that included jumping shrimp. Yes, they were very much alive, jumping for their lives just before she took her first bite. I chickened out, not because of the shrimp, but rather because of her jumping around like one of the shrimp from the dish because of the spiciness. Plus that, they were simply taken out of a basin of lake water and who knows what was in it.



Riding trucks, we traveled to visit some of the hill people of the area, that is, some of the more primitive tribes. Interesting, and they were certainly ready to sell us things as well.



Hotel tonight was a neat cabin unit. But there was a swimming pool available as well.



On the 29th, we walked across the border and spent the a.m. in Myanmar. Visited more temples, walked markets, and got a brief feel for this nation. It is only now that some persons are able to cross into the nation as its recent history has been very closed. We traveled by rickshaw around the area.



Lunch followed back in Thailand by having a meal at a distant restaurant. Distant enough that we transferred to a farm truck that had to be started by a hand crank. It sounded like it had two cylinders, but that was probably not the case. The roads were fun and rough.



After returning, we took a boat trip around the Golden Triangle, historically names because of gold and opium that traveled on the borders of Thailand, Burma and Laos. The boat then landed Laos and we spent some of the afternoon walking around a very small part of the shoreline.



So now, I've added to my 47 countries visited with Thailand, Japan, Myanmar, Cambodia and Laos. Vietnam will make a total of 53 visited.



A poppy museum was visited giving some background to that crop. It is pretty much controlled in Thailand but not in the neighboring countries.



While under construction today, the 30th, we did visit an awesome Buddhist temple. Pictures will only fully tell the story, but it glowed with many reflections in the sun.



Spent some of the afternoon shopping, but I bet Mom brought you up to date on that event as she seemed to gain an early birthday present. 



So, now to walk the streets some as we have some time on our own.



Love dad

Letter 6 (Ann)

Hi,

We have three days left in Thailand. A long train ride (overnight) awaits us at the end to get us back to Bangkok. Then on to VietNam. I am afraid we are buying too much large stuff. Hope we get it all in. We found a ceramic dragon for Heidi. It is only about 4-5 inches tall but had lots of tiny point sticking out all over.

Dad bought me my birthday gift today. A pair of diamond and ruby earrings to go with the ring of Grandma H's that I have. They are beautiful, small but just the size I like to wear.

I also bought a jacket: it is cotton, but very well made and it looks like silk. It is black and grey. Then I found a silk pillowcase just the shade of green (sage) for the living room.

Now we are in Chiang Mai having come from Chiang Rai. Yesterday our lunch was in a very interesting "restaurant" . It was run by a French woman who came over, bought land and decided to open this quaint restaurant. We had grilled (the Thai way) chicken. It was a complete half of a small chicken on bamboo skewers. There were Thai noodles in a banana leaf bundle and tamarind rice in a banana leaf basket. We each got our own plate with all of this on it. Delicious.

My knees have really been bothering me. Plus I slipped going down a ramp to the boat. There was sand on the ramp and I nearly fell in the drink, but dad caught me. However, it did not do my knees any good. And last night I had a "gut" ache and today it got worse. It did not feel like anything I had eaten. It was very specific pain when I pushed on my belly button. Then I remembered at my last physical my Dr. asked me if I knew if I had a hernia there. I said no and she O.K. as long as it is not bothering you. It is very small. So I guess now it is bothering me. Bummer.

I have been swimming and exercising in the pool most afternoons when we reach our hotel. However the water is quite cold. They do not heat it here. It must really cool down at night. Even the "hot" tub with jets is part of the main pools.

Tonight we are going to the night market and are on our own for supper.

I had my two camera chips put on a C.D. today so I can delete my pics from the chips now. I am down to 30 left. It only cost 100 baht about $2.50.

Enough rambling. I hope Mehnoush's week with the big wigs have gone well and I hope your stomach ramblings turned out to be nothing. Have a good vacation when you leave.

Really looking forward to coming to visit when we get back.

Love,

Mom

Letter 5 (both)

Hi,



I just had to tell you that I have eaten fried cricket, fried bamboo worm, fried grasshopper (yuch), fried silk worm yuch and a tiny bit of a scorpion's tail.



Quite a Mom, yes?



Love, Mom



Now we switch writers, Mom just left.



Events for January 27:



We began with a farm visit, which was quite an operation. Large catfish raising ponds. Rice, eggplant, pumpkin, morning glory, etc. And got to experience the extended family. While "just" farmers, they have sent their three children to college which I'm sure will change the future dynmics of that family.



We had to travel a fair distance today as well, but it was broken up with other various stops.



The next stop was rice factory where it was milled and bagged. Some of the bags ranged from 50 kilos to 100 kilos. That was a lot of work by the end of the day for the guys who got to carry them. Not much was wasted. Even the husks were burned and resold as fertilizer. No. Not bringing back a bag as a souvenir.



Another stop was at the Wat [temple] Mahathat in Sukothai which dates back to 1238, which is only a hundred years newer than Angkor Wat. One portion of this wat dates back to Hindu influence until "converted" over to Buddhism. We make our way around the grounds via a Tut-Tut, a contraption mounted on the front of a motorcycle which carried four people.



The bus also made a sudden stop at a rice field where they were transplanting rice shoots by hand one by one. How laborious. All women, of course, bending from the waist in the hot sun. They were standing in about eight inches of water as well.



We then learned the process of indigo making and dying. Interesting process. Then comes the handstamping on each fabric with wax image by image. I wonder how long its takes just to make one item?



Finally we stopped at another wat, this one newer having been built about 1900. It was a totally differnt style coming out of Burma.



As you can tell, OAT likes to involve its tourists in many of the day by day activities of the common people which makes it intereting to us.



Hope all is well with you. And is Mehnoush's boss there yet. I lost track of the timeline. Hope the local riots have also ceased and you can freely go about your business.



Perhaps you've done this already, but you can bring Grandma A uptodate on our activities as well.



Now, off for a nice shower!



Love dad

Letter 4 (dave)

Hi all,



Finally got the one computer at this nice hotel working and will try to get you caught up a bit.



First of all, we are well, and enjoying the experience of Thailand. In many ways, it is really a very modern country. There is not poverty I've experienced elsewhere. Many modern buildings. Fine highway system with a well maintained expressway system. Most cars are in good shape with a good number from the US and Japan. No effect where we are from the damage done a month ago. Of course, they are still working in that area. Persons are still missing. There is also some fear for the long term health of the economy since Thailand is dependent on tourism. We continue to enjoy the variety and taste of the Thai cuisine, though I wouldn't mind slipping in one steak dinner.



Of course, we've visited some temples as this is a Buddhist country. The one that included the "reclining Buddha" was impressive. Created some 200 years ago, it is 46 meters in its position.



On the 24th, we had a speed boat ride through floating markets and houseboats. This entire community essentially lives on the water. Shopping is done by boat which then visit simple stores on other boats.



The visit to the bridge over the Rive Kwai is sobering with the significant loss of life among the POW's as they were forced to build this bridge under extreme conditions. The old movie on the subject doesn't begin to touch the realities of this time in history during g WWII. Visiting the JEATH museum, part it is was housed in a shelter very much like what was home to the POW's. After this, we stopped to visit with a Thai man who witnessed the events at the POW camp and could respond to our questions with first hand impressions.



Then off to a raft where we and our belongings were towed to a cabins located in a national park. Here we spent two nights. Great site. The evening was spent hearing and seeing the traditional music and dance of the Mon people from Burma who live in this area of Thailand. Very colorful and interesting. Their music has no accidentals which adds to the uniqueness. Then the next day we traveled by long boat, a speed boat, back to the bus.



We return to the Kwai bit of history viewing another museum and hiking the Hellfire Canyon. We could actually see where the POW's did their work cutting through rock for the railroad tracks. Some of our hike was on the original railroad bed. Later that afternoon, we had a train ride that still used some of the original track.



There was a monkey stop following this, lots of them!



We walked another typical market, always interesting.



Lunch today was on a barge as we traveled down a river. Later this afternoon, we stopped for a snack of crickets, silkworm, bamboo work and scarub beetle.



Had a long day of driving today, the first of this trip. But it was interesting just watching the countryside.



This is not a birding trip, but have added about a dozen lifers thus far. So far, have done a better than average job of identifying what I have seen.



Must get ready for tomorrow, but here is another installment sent out when I can fine a computer.

Letter 3 (Dave)

Counting Mom's letter as #2. . .



Won't have Internet connections for at least a few days that I know of so I thought I would capture a few notes on today.



We toured and hiked around Bangkok today.



We began with the Temple of the Golden Buddha. It is one of the many massive temples here and in this case, a massive Buddha to match. Lots of people were there too. It is one of the most famous of the many Buddhas that are around. All temples seem to be well cared for and are very ornate.



We then hiked around the markets of Chinatown in Bangkok and viewed the temple there. Another ornate presentation in multicolor. All of the ingredients of a crowded market were there with items for the residents.



Noting the problems between the Hindus and Christians in Bangladore, Thailand was historically Hindu but Buddhism gradually took over with about 95% of the country following that faith. But we did see one historic Hindu "swing" this morning. Part of the ritual was swinging dangerously from pillar to pillar. That has now been outlawed since 1933 since there were too many accidents. This is very tall gate like structure.



Then we viewed the Temple of the Reclining Buddha. This guy is 150 feet in width -- reclining remember? -- and strikingly gold in color. How does one photograph that? It is over 200 years old.



We then had lunch on a barge in the main river that runs through Bangkok. A nice buffet. Hunger has not been a problem on this trip as we consume quite a variety of Thai cuisine.



We are well at this point though a few of the group have "gone down" with some kind of bug.



We now have the later afternoon at leisure so I am writing this and doing a film inventory. I've discovered that I've averaged 72 shots per day thus far on the trip. With the amount of film I have left, I can't average any more than 51 shots per day. I really thought I had enough along. So today, I was more disciplined. We would like to copy Mom's memory cards to a CD and than have her start over. But a place to do so is not easily available right now. And tomorrow we leave Bangkok so that will be more difficult.



Well, that's a quick one for now.

Letter 2 (Ann)

Hi,



We have finished our first 1 day here.  We arrived in the evening yesterday.  Dad told you about our flight to get here.



We began with a walk through the flower market.  When our guide, Nu, said we were going there, I expected just flowers like the S.F. flower market.  But they were making all kinds of things out of the flowers.  Most were used offerings in the Wat and in the spirit houses.  I can't even begin to describe them except to say Mehnoush, you would have loved the little jasmine ringlets about the size of a bracelet with a rose on the end.  Beautiful and fragrant. 



Must say good night.  Dad must be back from his massage by now. 



Love,



Mom



Today we had a wonderful boat tour on he river Chian-pray (I think).  The river homes ranged from elaborate to almost shacks, side by side.  One side of their home is floating over the river on stilts.  The other side is on land and they have a street access.  We saw a "boat" postman delivering mail.  It was a relaxing a cooling ride as the temp was 90 today.  We had a Thai cooking demonstration in a river home today.  It was 3 sisters, their brother, their mother, one sister's husband and one sister's two children all living in this elaborate house.  Riverside floor all ceramic tile etc.



I have two recipes she made (Dad helped).  But I probably couldn't reproduce them.  I may try.  Dad used the huge mortar and pestle and then stir-fried.  He said the worst part was the onion and garlic  (and spices) getting in his eyes from the rising steam as he cooked.  Got pictures of course.  We made a red curry paste to cook with.  The vegetable was  young loofa (like the sponge)and it was DELICIOUS.  I think I ate the whole bowl.  They use a lot of peanut sauce here which was served on a rice cake as an appetizer.  We had cucumber soup (cucumber chunks in broth)

and the two dishes we made.  Dessert was not quite ripe mango served with a pinch of salt and a fruit I cannot remember the name of.  Lemon grass tea which she had steeped all a.m. from real lemongrass was absolutely delicious.



Visited a Wat today all decorated with porcelin from China, some used whole (like plates and small dishes) and much of it broken into pieces.  Also visited the royal barge museum.  It is in a huge building (mainly just a roof over the water although the barges were up out of the water.  Beautiful fabrics used in the roof of the barges also on display.



Our hotel is near Chinatown, so we took a walk around when we returned.  I went to the 23rd floor to the outdoor pool.  Very small and no more than 3 1/2 ft. deep, but I managed to expercise in it anyway.  Had a delicious supper on the 25th floor revolving restaurant.  Vegetables in coconut milk over rice, a chicken dish and a beef and vegetable dish with it.  Had chicken and coconut cream soup first and a skewered chicken and peanut sauce as an appetizer and fruit for dessert.  I can again have some wonderful papaya again!



Of course, we have walked the streets tonight after supper.  So many food stalls along the major streets.  We found out that most Thais who live in the city eat out because it is very expensive to cook Thai because of the many ingredients for each dish unless you a cooking for a large family.

Letter 1

Obviously we have arrived! And all is going well.



We are just back from the Cambodia pretrip and landed at our hotel in Bangkok as few minutes ago. So, seeing this available computer, thought I would write a bit.



one observation: too much time at airport and in flight. We landed at Bangkok, having been delayed a couple of hours right in Chicago, got to bed at 3:30 a.m., then up early for the air flight to Siem Reap. Jet lag did hit the second night out with awaking at about 2 a.m. and not getting back to sleep. Yet, for some reason, I am functioning quite well on the amount of sleep I did get the first two night. Mom does better, of course. She sleeps well on the plane and anywhere else. she's doing well, except for her knees which are slowing her down a bunch.



We began our tour of Siem Reap with a tour of a very typical market for the common folk. Enjoyed that experience. We then walked around a neighborhood of houses -- huts some of them -- along a river. The Cambodians seem to be an easy going people. Lots of traffic, but no craziness. They take their turns, don't push, and at the slower speeds the crazy driving they do doesn't get them in trouble. They just know that others will give way and make space for them, even when they drive down the road on the wrong side. Lots and lots of bikes, leg powered and motor powered.



We did make contact with some of the missionaries in Cambodia and had an interesting conversation at a Cambodian restaurant. The UMC wasn't here until about 7 - 8 years ago when Cambodians who fled the country for the US, became Methodists, and then wanted to return to spread their story. Cambodia is 95% Buddhist. There are now 57 UMC's her. At the restaurant, I had Amok, a good combination of chicken in a coconut milk sauce. Mom had chicken with lemon grass and basil.



Two persons who met us at the restaurant was a young [he's 19] couple, he from the US and she from Cambodia. Seems that he was on a VIM trip to Cambodia during high school and fell in love with the country. He returned right after graduating from high school and then I guess fell in love more specifically. As many young Cambodians, she's a cute gal. While she knows little English, he's mastered Kymer in less than a year. He already serves as a translator. And in the Thai tradition, he now has more family responsibilities -- and extended family of many of her family members.They all live together in what a take is a rather small place.



The main feature for coming to Cambodia is to visit Angkor Wat. In summary: it is just overwhelming. Really too much to absorb. The construction, the art work, the architecture, and just its massiveness is incredible.



Last night we attended a cultural show portraying traditional Cambodian dance. Beautifully done by that team. It was part of a buffet event we signed up for. It gave us a good chance to try a lot of different area food.



Today we had an oxcart ride through a somewhat primitive village and then stopped at one of the homes where our hosts showed us round the house and talked of the family. Interesting to get into a typical house of a common extended family of three generations plus some "sideways" family members.



Recent history of Cambodia has been grim as you probably know. Today we visited one of the killing fields and viewed a large glass structure with piles of human bones and skulls stacked high. Our guide here was part of that experience and lost many family members.



Today we also took a boat trip though large village on boats. The entire town moves shifting with employment needs and water availability. We also visited a school singing to each other in this third grade.



One bad thing, I'm burning up the film at too fast a pace to last until the end. And another bad thing, after serious negotiations with the Cambodian security system, made no headway in being to leave with country with not just one of two zaps of my film.